The Armenian Community of Javakh, Georgia

A lady stomping on her cow-dung heap - used for heat in winter

ARMENIANS IN GEORGIA

The only way to travel by land between Armenia and Turkey is through Georgia.  The last part of our journey through Western Armenia took us back through Erzurum and Kars, and to the Armenian enclave of Javakh in southwestern Georgia, where we spent two days before returning to Yerevan.

Led by the then bishop of the Erzurum Diocese, Javakh was settled by the Armenian inhabitants of Erzurum beginning in the mid-1800’s, when the Armenians began experiencing oppression from the Ottoman Turks.  Today, Armenians are oppressed by the Georgians who are making efforts to integrate the villages with Georgians.  The children are not allowed to speak Armenian in the schools, or openly in public areas.  Many of the Javakh Armenians are not baptized, and the Georgians discourage Armenians from attending Armenian churches.  Efforts are underway to baptize all of the Armenian children in the region.

Notably, a few years ago the Georgians confiscated the historic Norashen Armenian Church in Tblisi, and has been systematically removing  any evidence, including Armenian gravestones, that this was an Armenian church.  Several other Armenian churches have been confiscated by the Georgians, and efforts are underway to persuade the Georgian government to return those churches to Armenians.

Read more about the Javakh Diocese here.

Our guide Dicko and Hayr Papken

The Armenian religious community of Javakh is under the supervision of The Very Rev. Father Papken Salbiyan, the Vicar of the Armenian Church Diocese of Javakh.  Hayr Sourp supervises the seven or eight Armenian priests assigned by Etchmiadzin (The Mother Church) to Javakh.  We had the distinct pleasure of spending a considerable amount of time in the town of Akhalkalaki with this very dynamic and passionate priest during our short stay.  His love for the Armenians of Javakh was so evident and his concern for the economic, social and political difficulties this Armenian community is facing because of Georgian political oppression is heart breaking.

Just up the block from the Diocesan Headquarters was the area church - Holy Cross Armenian Church.  This church was established by the Bishop of Erzurum in 1856 and was recently renovated.  It is an operating church.

Holy Cross Armenian Church in Akhalkalaki

Statue of the Bishop who started emigration
from Erzurum to Javakh

Close up of Statue of Bishop

In the garden of the churchyard

Front Door of Holy Cross Church

Der Hayr, Hayr Papken, Lisa and Adi

VISITING AREA HISTORIC CHURCHES

Javakh has several historic Armenian churches.  We were escorted by one of the local Armenian priests to Sourp Garabed Church in the small rural village of Gartsagh during the evening of our first day there.  The church, built in the late 1800’s, until 2 months ago, was half buried in dirt.  Thanks to a benefactor born in Gartsagh but now living in Armenia, the villagers began the church’s restoration about 3 months ago.  Today, one can walk through the side entry door and see a beautiful church, which will soon be consecrated.  The village is the last along the road that leads to the now-closed border with Turkey.  We were told that talks are ongoing about opening that border, which would cut the amount of driving time from Armenia to the historic city of Kars and Ani in Turkey by several hours.  Because the border might someday be opened, Hayr Papken insisted that the church in Gartsagh should be restored as soon as possible.  Regardless of whether the border opens, this church was well worth the effort!

Column cross still intact

One of the priests in Akhakalaki

Church was partially buried under dirt -
One can see the difference in the color of the stones from the bottom

Interior renovation looking from altar to back of church

Back windows - still under renovation

Original bell tower - restored after EQ damage

The next day, we had the good fortune to visit with the children of Akhakalaki, who sang for us.  They participate in a summer program directed by Hayr Sourp for social orphans and the Armenian children of the region.  The older children then entertained us with a very clever puppet show that was written by the students from historic stories.  Hayr Papken told me that the materials to make the puppets were donated by my good friend Dr. Garo Garibian from Philadelphia.  It was a delightful show!

GEORGIAN HISTORY - KHARTSISI FORTRESS, CAVE MONASTERY

Hayr Sourp accompanied us on a drive to the historic Khartsvisi fortress in the region.  Built in the 12^th century, it remains largely intact.

 

From there, we continued along the road and saw, across the river, the remains of another fortress.  

Continuing a small distance further in this historic region – with a little interference from the local cows – we pulled over into an area where we could park and walk.  Walking to the edge of the area, we looked over the wall down to the river.  On the other side of the river, high up on the mountainside, we saw an amazing site.

Lining the side of the mountain was a stretch of caves, bordered on one side by a fully intact building, and the arches, with small bells, of a church – this was the remnants of a monastery – Vardzia -- which was originally built inside the mountain. The large part of this multi-level structure was built in the 12^th century, although excavations have uncovered evidence of inhabitants dating several hundred years earlier.  In 1283, an earthquake damaged the monastery and it was largely abandoned for several hundred years.  It has now been submitted to UNESCO for inscription of the World Heritage list.  Although we could have driven across the bridge and up to the caves, and walked through them we elected not to – and, given my fear of heights, I would have napped in the van had the others chosen to do so!

Read more about this archeological masterpiece here.

VISITING THE TOWN OF ARAKOVA and LUNCH WITH THE DER HAYR AND HIS WIFE

We also visited the small village of Arakova where we saw the newly renovated church built in 1905 and enjoyed watching the kindergarten children sing a few songs for us.  The church was heavily damaged during 1918-1921 when the political stability of the region was in chaos after the war and before the treaty of Kars.  

These kindergarten age children are the choir for  Sunday services!
They knew the Divine Liturgy!

Afterwards, the Der Hayr (local married priest) led us by car over the completely unpaved bumpy village “roads” to his home, where his wife (Yeretzgin) had prepared a very delicious lunch for us!  What a delight it was to spend time with them – and, we enjoyed some amazing fresh honey from Der Hayr’s bee hives!

Der Hayr and his wife

A feast - including fresh honey

The road to Der Hayr's house

Der Hayr's Honey Bees and Home

After our return to the city, we visited a beer factory in town that has recently been established by an American Armenian and his partner from Armenia.  This was an amazing facility - immaculate and modern - on a large piece of property.  The owner was proud of the fact that, when the factory was up to full speed, it would provide jobs for a great number of people in the Javakh reason.  We tasted the beer, which was good (not being a beer drinker, it was fine for me!).  I have never seen beer bottled in 2 liter plastic bottles before, as they were at the Ballis Brewery.  Makes sense to me!

We returned to our hotel – the only modern hotel in the city of Akakhalaki – which was just a half block from the Diocesan headquarters, and had a late dinner with the Der Hayr and Hayr Sourp, after making a late evening visit to another village where an intact Armenian church stood.  On Friday, June 22, after visiting the local museum, we started our journey back to the Georgia/Armenia border and our return to Yerevan.

This journey through Western Armenia and Georgia was memorable in so many ways and we met so many wonderful people.  I am very glad we decided to make this trip!

Dikranagert (Diyarbekir) - Returning to my family's ancestral home

 On Monday June 20, 2012, we arrived in Diyarbekir – the historic Armenian capital of Dikranagert.  In 2009, we came into the old city from the south via the Mardin Gate.  This time, we came from the north via the Harput Gate.

The history of the city dates back to the 13^th Century BC where it was the capital of the Aramean kingdom and part of a historic Assyrian/Syriac stronghold that produced many famous patriarchs of the Syrian/Assyrian church.  Some of their patriarchs are buried in St. Mary Assyrian Church, which we visited during our time there.  (More later on that church).  This area was known for the great city built by the Armenian King Tigran - one of four cities throughout historic Armenia named Tikranagert.   The time of King Tigran reign was also known as the Golden Age of Armenia.  Historians believe that the original site for historic Tigranagert in this area is within 20 miles of the current-day Diyarbekir.  Its remains have not yet been confirmed.  Recently, however, archaeologists discovered the remains of another one of the four cities in Karabagh (the area to the East of current Armenia that is now the subject of a long and unpleasant conflict between Azerbajian and Armenia).  That site is now under excavation and restoration.

The old city is surrounded by ancient fortress walls that we were told are close to the length (in totality) of the Great Wall in China.  Whether or not that is true, looking at the walls of the old fortress was still a real treat.  In the area of the Harput Gate, one section has been removed to construct the road.  The rest, while in disrepair, is still intact.

 

We parked the van next to the wall and began our afternoon walk of the old city.   The old city is configured in a circle with two larger roads intersecting the city to create four quadrants.

Amirian Family - 1913 - Dikranagert, Turkey

In the early 1900’s when my family lived here, we believe they lived in the area marking the lower left quadrant, near the Mardin Gate and Sourp Sarkis Armenian Apostolic Church.  The Cathedral of Sourp Giragos Armenian Apostolic Church was located in the lower left section of the upper right quadrant.  We believe that our family attended both churches.  We know from my maternal grandfather’s writings that his family attended, and was part of the construction of, St. Sarkis church.

Street Vendors

Cheese - Any kind you want!

Walking up the main street running up the center of the "circle" of the old city, we saw vendors selling cheese, vegetables and herbs, bread, and all kinds of day-to-day goods, including huge bins of diapers, imported (probably from China) skirts, underwear, t-shirts, kitchen utensils, etc.  Ice cream carts and bottled water vendors lined the streets.

We turned onto much narrower cobblestone streets that passed through the residential areas of the city leading to Sourp Giragos.  Our mission was to see the cathedral, which was recently completely renovated and consecrated.  My family (brother and cousins) visited this city in 2009 but we did not see Sourp Giragos church, which at that time was still in ruins.  As a result, we were not sure whether the family picture taken in 1913 was taken in front of the windows of Sourp Giragos or Sourp Sarkis (the church we visited).

We reached the outer walls of the cathedral complex, only to find the gate locked.  Our guide knocked, and a workman answered the door – when we asked if we could come in, he said no – “renovation.”  Not an acceptable excuse for me!!  I told him (whether he understood or not) “We came from the United States to see this church – you have to let us in!”  Our guide chipped in using his broken Turkish – eventually, not being able to beat down my persistence, the young man let us come in.  I later showed him the family photo, which was on my iPhone, and then he understood why we wanted to see the church.

Workers carving stones outside Sourp Giragos

Walking around the outside of the church, we realized that our family photo could not have been taken at this church.  The windows were architecturally different and placed too high.

Three of the five altars of Sourp Giragos Armenian Church

Restored columns and roof

Sourp Giragos - before renovation - main altar and two side altars

We next walked to the nearby “caravansary” which was used in the old days for the various merchants to show their wares, and to sleep on their journeys to different villages.  My great grandfather was a merchant and most likely this is one of the places he may have sold his wares.  The other caravansary in the old city is very near Sourp Sarkis Church and the Mardin Gate.  It is now a luxury hotel.

"Tonir" - Bread Baking Oven

Leaving the caravansary, we walked to the southwest quadrant of the old city, through narrow cobblestone streets, passing children playing in front of their doors, women standing in their doorways, and, occasionally, a young woman standing at the local “tonir” baking bread.  The tonir is a deep vessel built into a cement “table” – the woman builds a fire inside at the bottom which gets the vessel very hot.  She then removes the wood, makes her bread loafs, and then slaps them onto the sides of the hot tonir.  The loaves stick to the sides and bake – with a crispy bottom (the best part) and soft middle.  My grandmother Queeny told us about how as children they went with their mother to the tonir and helped her bake bread.  Because the two tonirs we saw were very near Sourp Sarkis Church, and looked like they had been there for a long time, I envisioned that my grandmother and her mother Lucia (who was killed by the Turks in the village) may have likely stood in this same square.

Bread Baking in Tonir (Outdoor Oven)

Our next stop was the historic Syriac Church, Saint Mariam.  Father Joseph’s son invited us in.  Father Joseph was sitting in the beautiful courtyard outside of the church but within the walls.  He took us on the tour of this beautiful renovated historic church. 

We all then walked the winding narrow cobblestone pathways several hundred meters to Sourp Sarkis Church, which our family visited in 2009. 

Sourp Sarkis - 2009

Narthex - 2012 - filled with trash

The gate was locked, but a villager who lives in a “dwelling” that has been constructed almost inside the wall area of the church allowed us to walk through her home into the courtyard, where her children were playing, and where a small herb garden was growing in the dirt along the outer wall of the church.  I don’t recall seeing this home in 2009.

Father Joseph had never been inside St. Sarkis and was amazed at how terrible its condition was.  He explained that the locals knew this church as the “rice church” because they used the church in past days to package rice.  It was in no better or worse condition that what we saw in 2009.  However, as we explored the church again – this time somewhat less emotionally than the last time – we found some interesting inscriptions that I personally don’t recall seeing in 2009.  Our guide, Dikran, was very excited because he too had never been in this church. 

Armenian Inscription Survives

 Partially visible inscription - on its side under pillar 

Exterior door inside courtyard - Sourp Sarkis

We then explored the outside of the church, and all of us were convinced that our family sat in front of these windows in 1913 as part of my great great grandfather’s funeral and took the family picture that led us to this city.  It was a very emotional moment for me.

2009 - Main Altar - Tile work was designed by our great-great-uncle

Amirian Family + Lisa Kalustian and Harold Kardashian - 2009

Across from the church yard I was able to look through bars covering the windows of a residence that has been abandoned because of disrepair.  My grandmother described her residence as a "courtyard surrounded by doors" leading into the various dwellings which were occupied by her aunts, uncles and cousins.  The picture below depicts the inside of the home across from the church.

Across from Sourp Sarkis - Dwelling (abandoned)

Inside of abandoned dwelling

We returned to the Syriac church, had coffee with Father Joseph and then went to our hotel located just outside of the Harput Gate, about 5 minutes walking distance from the old city.  That evening we had dinner at a charming little outdoor restaurant and visited with its manager, who was a Kurdish friend of our guide.  He shared with us the difficulties the current day Kurds are having with the Turkish government.  This city is the center of the political strength of the Kurdish rebels who are experiencing oppression from the Turks to leave the area – most of Western Armenia is now inhabited by Kurds.  Back in my grandparents’ time, the Kurds were not friendly to Armenians.  Today, they are sympathetic to their historic plight.  Hearing this young man tell his story I felt like “déjà vu” back to the early 1900’s.

The following morning, we left our hotel and began our journey back to Armenia, heading to Erzurum for the night, and then for the Armenian populated area of Javakh in the country of Georgia.  I felt like this chapter of my quest to stand where my grandparents had stood nearly 100 years ago was finally complete.  It was a very satisfying and emotional day for me.